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Mitton Road Business Park
Mitton Road, Whalley
Clitheroe, BB7 9YE
tel: 01254 824 837
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THE BENEFITS OF RETINOIDS Retinol could be your second best anti-ageing tool after broad-spectrum sunscreen of course! Retinol is a vitamin A derivative and part of the retinoid family along with retinaldehyde (retinal), retinyl palmitate and retinal acetate. Retinol is considered to be a cosmetic ingredient and found mostly in skin care products. Prescription retinoid products such as tretinoin (Retin-A, Retin-A Micro, Renova), aldapalene (Differin) and tazarotene (Tazorac) are more potent than retinol, but have a higher chance of irritation. Dr. Albert M. Kligman was a dermatologist who, along with his colleagues, first identified the use of retinoid acid as a treatment for acne and wrinkles in 1986 [1]. Over 40 years of established research and more than 700 published studies show that retinoids are helpful in treating ageing skin by increasing firmness, reducing fine lines and wrinkles, and improving skin tone and texture [2]. Retinoids have also been shown to reduce acne and pore size appearance [3]. The benefits of retinol can be noticed as early as 6 to 8 weeks. THE SCIENCE OF RETINOIDS The beneficial effects of retinoids are mediated by their interaction with specific nucleic acid receptors in the nucleus of cells [4]. Retinoic acid regulates the expression of cellular genes (DNA) via the activation of two classes of nuclear retinoid receptors, known as retinoic acid receptors (RARs) and retinoid X receptors (RXRs). The current definition of a retinoid is any molecule that, by itself or through metabolic conversion, binds to and activates the retinoic acid receptors, thereby eliciting transcriptional activation of retinoic acidresponsive genes that results in specific biologic responses [5]. It is the action of retinoic acid on DNA that accounts for its biological effects on the skin such as the control of epithelial cell proliferation and differentiation, immune modulation, stimulation of the creation of new blood vessels, and production of collagen [6,7]. Retinoids also reduce the expression of MMP 1 (collagenase 1) [8,9]. In addition, retinol is an antioxidant, which protects DNA, cell membranes and proteins from UVinduced free radical damage. THE BIOAVAILABILITY OF RETINOIDS Retinoic acid is the only form of retinol that the body can use. Therefore, specialised enzymes in skin cells must be used to convert other forms of vitamin A into retinoic acid. Some forms of vitamin A are more easily converted to retinoic acid than others. RETINOIC ACID CONVERSION PATHWAY: Retinyl Palmitate > Retinol > Retinaldehyde > Retinoic Acid As shown above, it takes two metabolic steps to convert retinol to retinoic acid and three steps to convert retinyl palmitate to retinoic acid. The overall rate of conversion from one form of vitamin A to another is low. Therefore, a relatively large amount of retinol and even larger amount of retinyl palmitate need to be delivered into a cell to boost retinoic acid levels and produce clinically meaningful effects. Retinoic acid is the strongest retinoid followed by retinaldehyde and retinol.
• Avoid jars. All forms of vitamin A eventually break down and oxidise when exposed to air and light turning a deeper yellow and then brownish. Only buy a retinoid product if it is packaged in an opaque pump container that minimises exposure to light and air.
• Start low and go slow. If you are new to retinoids, start using every 2 to 3 days or mix it with your moisturiser. Gradually increase frequency to nightly as your skin adjusts.
• Look for encapsulated retinol. A polymer or wax encases the retinol, which protects it while on the shelf and then slowly releases it into the skin. This creates a time-release delivery that reduces irritation and gives the body more time to convert the retinol into retinoic acid. •
Use a broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or greater. Daily use of sunscreen can help prevent premature signs of ageing. •
Use retinoids in the evening and wash your face in the morning. Vitamin A in all forms is destroyed by UV light and can make skin more sensitive to the sun. In addition, a study by the National Toxicology Program, which is a U.S. government research group, has concluded that retinyl palmitate may speed up the development of skin tumours when applied to the skin in the presence of sunlight [10]. Note: Do not use retinoids if you are pregnant, lactating or planning to become pregnant
tinaldehyde and retinol.
There’s No Such Thing As A Healthy Tan

Public service announcement: tanning is a sign of skin cell DNA damage. Yep, sorry (not sorry) to inform you that tanning officially damages your skin at the very deepest level. Why does that matter? Well, it’s that damage that causes everything we tend not to like about our skin… lines, uneven skin tone, large pores, and even skin sagging. For many years, tanned skin has been considered by many as ‘healthy’ skin and therefore changing your perception of a tan is difficult – but we’re up for the task! While there’s no denying that sunshine can have a positive effect on our mood, it is detrimental to our skin. Once you understand exactly HOW the sun destroys skin quality, you, like us, will come to take healthy sun habits, such as shade-bathing, more seriously – get ready for your best hat collection ever.
Why does my skin seem to love the sun?
Plenty of people report that being in the sun actively makes their skin look and feel better, with blemishes clearing up and skin looking more even. It’s seemingly natural to say “I just need a bit of sun” when skin looks a bit dull. What’s that all about? Well, as the all-powerful sun attacks, the skin goes into high-crisis mode; water is forced out and there’s inflammation at a cellular level – all of which means the skin is forced into repair mode. The outcome of that repair is that blemishes quickly clear up, BUT the damage that’s being done to the cells AT THE SAME TIME accelerates acne scarring, lines, wrinkles, and discolouration... it's like taking 1 step forward and 4 steps back! Temporarily, the skin will look better, but long term it will look much worse. Have you ever thought, “I don’t need makeup when I’m on holiday because my skin is amazing and so healthy”?? Guilty as charged! When you have a suntan, your skin tone appears more even because the increased melanin (pigment) is spread throughout the entire area. This evens out the colour, making any darkened or discoloured spots less noticeable. When autumn arrives and the tan fades, skin is left looking more uneven as the damaged areas struggle to repair themselves. Home-from-holiday skin is discoloured, dry and wrinkly, the tan has damaged the skin rather than helping it to become healthier.
Can’t trauma be good for the skin?
You might have heard that trauma can lead skin to naturally repair itself and therefore get stronger, and yes this can be true when it comes to controlled in-clinic treatments. In fact, the premise of most in-clinic treatments is controlled trauma. For example, a chemical peel causes a chemical wound, while micro needling causes a physical wound, forcing the skin to respond with the appropriate healing to get results. What is key here though, is that in-clinic treatments are always performed by a professional practitioner who knows how to persuade the skin by causing only the right amount of inflammation, so the body responds to get the results you want. Practitioners also work very hard to maintain the skin barrier at all times and provide strict pre and post-care routines. When you go into the sun there’s no positive or controlled trauma… it’s all just inflammation and damage. A tan represents skin trauma - all of a sudden it doesn’t look so “oh la la”.
How to Futureproof your skin
Now you know that there’s no such thing as a healthy tan there are steps you can take to keep your skin protected and looking healthier, long-term. First up is sunscreen. We’ve said it before and we’ll say it again, and again and again… broad-spectrum sunscreen is a non-negotiable daily staple. Our broad-spectrum sunscreens are all mineral, a.k.a. physical, meaning that they largely reflect and scatter the sun’s rays away from the skin, helping to prevent the sun from causing damage. These sunscreens have antioxidants to naturally protect the skin, and they feel light and comfortable. You can choose from clear or tinted versions, and you don’t need a different formula on holiday - our sunscreens are ideal for hot climates. Reapplication every two hours is pretty easy at the beach, but say you’re at lunch with a full face of makeup on? Luckily, we’ve got a blog that tells you everything – How to Actually Reapply Sunscreen.
As for lifestyle, staying in the shade when you can and stocking up on cool sunglasses and stylishly functional hats will help your skin stay on track this summer and every summer from now on! There’s always fake tan, because – repeat after us – there’s no such thing as a healthy tan!

As a Skin Professionals UK group expert I was asked to explain to newbies/ non- professionals, why it is really detrimental to use home microneedling devices, particularly rollers, 3x per week to a depth of .5mm on unprepped skin as is currently being recommended by a certain celebrity with zero training in skin science. So I thought I'd share it here on my page too!

Firstly a bit of REALLY basic skin science ….

The skin doesn’t know the difference between being grazed, burnt, cut or being microneedled; as soon as it’s injured the inflammatory cascade is initiated and the healing/ knitting back of the skin begins.

The whole point of microneedling is to instigate CONTROLLED skin wounding.

CONTROLLED wounding, as opposed to UNCONTROLLED sets off a CONTROLLED INFLAMMATORY RESPONSE which ultimately kick starts lazy fibroblast cells without trauma.

Fibroblast cells produce collagen, elastin and Hyaluronic acid.

UNCONTROLLED wounding will set off UNCONTROLLED INFLAMMATORY responses which are detrimental to skin health and appearance.

For example; CONTROLLED wounding is FANTASTIC for melanin rich, darker skin tones but UNCONTROLLED wounding of melanin rich skins can lead to keloid scarring as the skin tends to over heal itself by producing too much collagen.

We all want to look younger for longer, preferably without the aid of injectables or surgery so, if carried out CORRECTLY, microneedling is the perfect regenerative treatment.

Why do we need to kick start the fibroblasts?

The fibroblasts stop proactively making elastin when we’re 25. Elastin is a protein that gives our skin elasticity- think of the stretch in a rubber band.

The fibroblasts stop proactively making collagen when we’re 35 but we actually lose 1.5% of it every year from the age of 21!

We have many types of collagen throughout the body and within the skin structure. They all do various jobs but with needling we’re mainly concerned with cultivating loads of healthy Type I.

Collagen Type I starts out as baby bundles of Type III. We need to nurture Type III by feeding it with daily antioxidants & SPF to ensure it remodels into strong & mighty Type I – this acts like internal scaffolding and pushes the skin structure up, ironing out the wrinkles!

Hyaluronic acid production depletes as we age; it’s associated with oestrogen levels so by the time we’re post-menopausal reserves are low!

HA is a gel-like, spongey substance that can potentially hold up to 1000x its own weight in water.

Without an abundance of HA for hydration our collagen & elastin loses its suppleness and our skin lacks volume.

The epidermis consists of 80% of keratinocyte cells interspersed with 20% melanocyte, Langerhan & stem cells. It measures approximately .5mm. Imagine the protective brickwork of a house but only as thick as a sheet of paper, thus it requires TLC.

These cells begin their journey at the basal layer and over approximately 28 days they travel to the surface where they are programmed to die and slough off. Our stem cells are going nowhere so however old we get, we will always produce new keratinocytes.

Just before they slough off they become ‘corneocyte’ cells, don’t be fooled though; they play a vital and integral role in the ‘barrier function’ (protection & hydration) of our skin thus we don’t want to prematurely lose them.

The dermis is deeper than the epidermis; depending on what area of the body it is & how old the person. On average, it is about 1.2mm thick on the face.

The dermis is made up of the fibroblasts, said collagen (mainly type I) and elastin proteins suspended in HA (& other glycosominoglycans) plus a capillary network. We refer to this as the Extra Cellular Matrix. When we’re young, it’s plump and bouncy; responsible for giving our skin its thickness & volume.

The epidermis and dermis are attached by the ‘dermal/ epidermal junction’; anchored, adhered and connected together with collagen types IV, VII & XVII…

These are the types affected by photoageing as they’re closest to the sun.

After 20yrs of case studies by the pioneers of medical microneedling, we unequivocally know that for GENERAL collagen regeneration PLUS

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