As a Skin Professionals UK group expert I was asked to explain to newbies/ non- professionals, why it is really detrimental to use home microneedling devices, particularly rollers, 3x per week to a depth of .5mm on unprepped skin as is currently being recommended by a certain celebrity with zero training in skin science. So I thought I'd share it here on my page too!
Firstly a bit of REALLY basic skin science ….
The skin doesn’t know the difference between being grazed, burnt, cut or being microneedled; as soon as it’s injured the inflammatory cascade is initiated and the healing/ knitting back of the skin begins.
The whole point of microneedling is to instigate CONTROLLED skin wounding.
CONTROLLED wounding, as opposed to UNCONTROLLED sets off a CONTROLLED INFLAMMATORY RESPONSE which ultimately kick starts lazy fibroblast cells without trauma.
Fibroblast cells produce collagen, elastin and Hyaluronic acid.
UNCONTROLLED wounding will set off UNCONTROLLED INFLAMMATORY responses which are detrimental to skin health and appearance.
For example; CONTROLLED wounding is FANTASTIC for melanin rich, darker skin tones but UNCONTROLLED wounding of melanin rich skins can lead to keloid scarring as the skin tends to over heal itself by producing too much collagen.
We all want to look younger for longer, preferably without the aid of injectables or surgery so, if carried out CORRECTLY, microneedling is the perfect regenerative treatment.
Why do we need to kick start the fibroblasts?
The fibroblasts stop proactively making elastin when we’re 25. Elastin is a protein that gives our skin elasticity- think of the stretch in a rubber band.
The fibroblasts stop proactively making collagen when we’re 35 but we actually lose 1.5% of it every year from the age of 21!
We have many types of collagen throughout the body and within the skin structure. They all do various jobs but with needling we’re mainly concerned with cultivating loads of healthy Type I.
Collagen Type I starts out as baby bundles of Type III. We need to nurture Type III by feeding it with daily antioxidants & SPF to ensure it remodels into strong & mighty Type I – this acts like internal scaffolding and pushes the skin structure up, ironing out the wrinkles!
Hyaluronic acid production depletes as we age; it’s associated with oestrogen levels so by the time we’re post-menopausal reserves are low!
HA is a gel-like, spongey substance that can potentially hold up to 1000x its own weight in water.
Without an abundance of HA for hydration our collagen & elastin loses its suppleness and our skin lacks volume.
The epidermis consists of 80% of keratinocyte cells interspersed with 20% melanocyte, Langerhan & stem cells. It measures approximately .5mm. Imagine the protective brickwork of a house but only as thick as a sheet of paper, thus it requires TLC.
These cells begin their journey at the basal layer and over approximately 28 days they travel to the surface where they are programmed to die and slough off. Our stem cells are going nowhere so however old we get, we will always produce new keratinocytes.
Just before they slough off they become ‘corneocyte’ cells, don’t be fooled though; they play a vital and integral role in the ‘barrier function’ (protection & hydration) of our skin thus we don’t want to prematurely lose them.
The dermis is deeper than the epidermis; depending on what area of the body it is & how old the person. On average, it is about 1.2mm thick on the face.
The dermis is made up of the fibroblasts, said collagen (mainly type I) and elastin proteins suspended in HA (& other glycosominoglycans) plus a capillary network. We refer to this as the Extra Cellular Matrix. When we’re young, it’s plump and bouncy; responsible for giving our skin its thickness & volume.
The epidermis and dermis are attached by the ‘dermal/ epidermal junction’; anchored, adhered and connected together with collagen types IV, VII & XVII…
These are the types affected by photoageing as they’re closest to the sun.
After 20yrs of case studies by the pioneers of medical microneedling, we unequivocally know that for GENERAL collagen regeneration PLUS